The Drunken Vine

Rebooting the Drunken Vine

Chris Saunders — Mon, 27 Dec 2010 23:53:30 +0000

Hiya folks – for anyone that regularly reads the blog today, I’m rebooting the blog and moving to squarespace. Look for postings in the new year at wine.canadianchris.com.

Thanks!

Chris

Almost a Year later….

Chris Saunders — Sat, 05 Jun 2010 00:43:07 +0000

It’s almost a year later, and things have changed! I spent a good part of that year writing for TasteTO on a biweekly basis, and I believe my writing style has improved immensely. I am planning to return to writing off the cuff pieces on wine styles, grape varietals and all kinds of other wine geekery. Stay tuned!

get your Rock on

Chris Saunders — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 03:06:41 +0000

Flat Rock Cellars is a winery situated on the Twenty Mile Bench in Niagara. They’ve chosen varietals specifically suited to the cooler climates of Niagara; Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling and some Gewurtraminer. The winemaker is Marlize Beyers, a South African gal who spent time in the ‘old world’ making wines before joining the team at Flat Rock. It’s a progressive winery, with low yield vineyards where grapes are hand picked and hand sorted to ensure a quality end product.

I am really into many of the wines Flat Rock produces, their pinot noirs have genuine panache! Tonight I was hunting for a white wine with charisma and flare. Riesling is one of my all time farvourite white wines, I am hoping that Marlize and the team will not late my palate down! Nadja’s Vineyard is a small block in front of the winery, that tends to get more winds and stay cooler, so I’m expecting some ripping acidity.

Flat Rock Cellars Nadja’s Vineyard Riesling 2007
Canada | Flat Rock Cellars
VINTAGES 578625 | 750 mL | $ 19.95

The first scent that smacks my olfactories is a flowery petrol smell. Yes, gas. Imagine filling the tank of your car in a summer field. Maybe a friend opens a can of peaches nearby. I give the glass a swirl, and there it is again. Now for those of you that aren’t into Rieslings, stick with me for a little longer. The “gas” like smell is typically the hallmark of a well aged riesling and it’s a welcomed trait for riesling-ophiles (ok that isn’t really a word). It’s not unpleasant! The petrol notes are still there after a few more swirls, but I start to pick up some sweeter notes as well. A little honey shows up, together with faint notes of lemongrass and peaches.

When I take a sip, the vibrant acidity takes hold immediately, curling the sides of my tongue. The mid-palate shows me tasty red grapefruit, and there is a surprisingly lengthy finish that takes me from the grapefruit through notes of honey, wet rock, and pear. The acidity definitely gets my mouth watering, as my body tries desperately to balance the pH in my mouth.

This is a serious Riesling. I am actually speechless. I want to spend more time with this Riesling, take it to dinner and a movie and then make out in the back of my car for awhile. I’d take it home to my parents after – mom hates it but dad gives me a wink and the thumbs up behind mom’s back. It’s a beautiful fling with Riesling for my palate. There’s a lot here, and I get the sense the sum of the 2008 growing season has made it into my glass from the small block in the Flat Rock vineyards. It is a rare occasion that you feel that connection with the land and the winemaker, but I feel that Ms. Beyers has shared a little about the struggle of 2008 with me in this glass, and my palate is the better for it.

This is a classic example of why white wines deserve more credit. Tannins? Nope, but good wine is about more than having friends peel your tongue off the roof of your mouth. Balance, complexity – the wine is enjoyable to drink, and everytime you go back there is something else waiting for you. I’ve said it before, Riesling is the great secret of the wine world. A red of this complexity would be somewhere in the 50+ dollar range. For 20 dollars, I have a happy palette! Go out and find a bottle at your local LCBO, take your time and enjoy one of Niagara’s best examples of Riesling available. Congrats to the team at Flat Rock!

Feelin’ Rosy on Canada Day

Chris Saunders — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 00:20:36 +0000

The folks that read my posts regularly know that I am an equal opportunity quaffer. Reds, whites, sparklers it really doesn’t matter to me. All I ask is for an interesting wine with good structure, balance and complexity. I don’t care what colour it is. I had steak marinading to put on the bbq this afternoon, a tasty combination of Worcestershire, soy, olive oil, crushed peppercorns, whole grain dijon, brown sugar and Dr. Pepper. I decided this would be a great opportunity to try pairing steak with pink wine from the Rhone. Tavel AOC is across the Rhone from CdP. Grenache and Cinsault are the main varietals at work in this region. This particular wine is a blend of Bourboulenc, Clairette, Grenache, Syrah, Mouvedre, Cinsault and Picpoul.

CHÂTEAU D’AQUERIA TAVEL ROSÉ 2008
VINTAGES 712000 | 375 mL bottle

As I lift the beautiful bright pink liquid to my nose, I get a lot of pretty red fruit. Strawberry is here, and so is raspberry. I also get a hint of tropical fruit – some banana like I’ve just peeled a ripe banana and I’m smelling the peel – as well as some sweet herbs like basil. There is a hint of pepper in the nose (thank you Syrah!) and a whiff of rose petal. I leave the bouquet and decide to let my palate get some action. Up front I taste essence of strawberry, like I just finished eating a strawberry and the essential flavour is still there. I sense structure that was unexpected – great acidity and hint of tannin. There is some minerality on the mid-palate, and I’m thinking about red flintstone vitamins when I was a kid, I get that same kind of flavour profile. The finish is really unexpectedly long, dominated for me by the continued minerality and soft red fruit.

This is a beautiful wine for the summer – fresh and aromatic. I’m thinking summer bbq in the sun, cellar temperature not chilled. I originally had this wine in the fridge. When I took it out and poured, the nose was very closed. At just below room temperature the aromatics were all there and ready for me! This wine cost me 12.95 at my local lcbo, I think it’s a great deal for a great summer wine. Pick a bottle up, let me know if you agree!

Wines for Easter

Chris Saunders — Thu, 09 Apr 2009 02:25:40 +0000

Easter is one of the holiest holidays of the year. My family uses these times to bring the family together for a meal, some laughs and fun. The typical family dinner over these holidays involve roasted turkey, ham, mashed potatoes, veggies, dressing and casseroles of some sort. Pies and ice cream for dessert. It’s my trainer’s worst nightmare. Well, actually *my* worst nightmare – working out after an unrestrained holiday weekend reminds me I need to build more self-discipline. If you run through the list of foods I listed above, and consider my first article on matching strength or weight of the wine you’ll have a hard time making a match. What’s a wine lover to do? Pick a great wine, skip the meal enjoy the wine. Just kiddin.

In general I try to pick wines that will keep up with the most flavourful dishes of the meal. The only real challenge is that some of the more delicate flavours may be lost. For love of a great wine, I’m willing to make that sacrifice. I bring a white wine and a red to these meals. The white is either a riesling, a fruity chardonnay, or maybe even a sauv blanc. Some sweetness, vibrant acidity, spice and weight to stand up to the meal. For a red wine, I’m looking to zinfandel a merlot, maybe a warm climate pinot. Big fruit, soft tannins and decent some peppery notes that work with the heartier dishes like roasted turkey or dressing.

Here are a few of my suggestions from each category, but get out there and give it a try yourself and enjoy some great wine with friends and family. Let me know what you take home, and how it worked out with your meal!!

Above all, cherish the time you have with the people you love. A votre sante!

Suggested Whites

BERNHARD MEHRLEIN RIESLING KABINETT FEINHERB 2007
VINTAGES 89581 | 750 mL bottle

CLOUDY BAY CHARDONNAY 2006
VINTAGES 359513 | 750 mL bottle

LE CLOS JORDANNE CLAYSTONE TERRACE CHARDONNAY 2006
VINTAGES 56929 | 750 mL bottle

Suggested Reds

MOUEIX MERLOT (V)
VINTAGES 961227 | 750 mL bottle

D’ARENBERG THE FERAL FOX PINOT NOIR 2006
VINTAGES 652891 | 750 mL bottle

oh barbera

Chris Saunders — Fri, 03 Apr 2009 01:27:09 +0000

I must have been italian in a past life. Fast cars, beautiful women, rich hearty food and beautiful wines with naturally high acidity and tannins. Barbera and Nebbiolo are my all time favourites. Barbera d’Alba comes from Piedmont, the Alba region. To carry the Barbera d’Alba DOC label, the wine must be 100% Barbera.

PAOLO CONTERNO BRICCO SANT’ AMBROGIO BARBERA D’ALBA 2007
VINTAGES 744714 | 750 mL bottle

Price: $ 18.95

On the nose, this is a little austere – Maraschino cherries, leather, plums, and a whiff of white pepper. In the mouth, beautiful vibrant acidity and sharp tannins. Fresh cherries, ripe plums, with a hint of pepper, nutmeg and a bit of cranberry. The finish is medium in length with lots of plum and pepper still showing. After a couple of minutes the lingering flavour of plum is still there. I dig it. This wine is beautifully structured, and the acidity and tannins are begging for food. Try this one with a nice pecorino, or some other hard salty cheese. Given the under 20 price tag, this is a winner.

food and wine pairings part I – matching flavour profile

Chris Saunders — Sat, 28 Mar 2009 01:20:09 +0000

howdy folks. I thought this week I’d add a couple of words on the topic of food and wine pairings. Rather than dive into the complexities of food and wine matching, I want to provide some general guidelines that will help you decide on a bottle the next time you’re in the LCBO, thinking about the dinner party and what will work with it. Here’s my typical weekend scenario. I find some adventurous dish I want to make for my wife and/or family. I get all excited about getting the groceries for it, spend some time out Saturday morning at the farmer’s market here in Guelph. Next thing I know, I’m at the LCBO desperately trying to figure out what the heck is going to work with the amazing dinner I’m creating. To save you from the same fate, I’d like to provide some tips on matching wine and food.

First consider the strength of a wine and the food you are matching it to. By strength I mean how strong the flavours are expressed, how tannic, acidic, viscous and alcoholic the wine is. Food will have many of the same properties (minus the alcohol, and generally no tannins!). Try and match strong wines with flavours in your food that are just as strong. A ripe big cabernet sauvignon works well with grilled steak for a number of reasons, but one is that the wine is full of big ripe flavours and tannins and the steak is meaty with big flavours from the grill and spices or sauces. A burgundian style pinot noir works well with salmon for the same reason – the wine is delicate with a lighter flavour profile, the salmon is similarly delicate.

More to come next week, as well as some tasting notes from another LCBO pick under 20 bones!

malbec for the weekend

Chris Saunders — Fri, 20 Mar 2009 22:39:52 +0000

So I haven’t spent enough time with Malbec. Everytime I open a bottle I’m surprised by how much I enjoy it. Malbec is found in Bordeaux blends, southwest France, and is becoming extremely well known as a notable variety in Argentina.

LUIGI BOSCA RESERVA MALBEC 2005
VINTAGES 79293 | 750 mL bottle

I see a beautiful shining ruby red colour with a hint of purple. On the nose I get cedar and black licorice first, followed by dark ripe bruised cherries and a hint of chocolate. Luxurious in the mouth at first, and the tannins burst in quickly and roughly. I love the acidity, it’s making my mouth water a little. I can’t even tell there’s 14% alcohol!! There’s a burst of fruit flavour. The cherry is still here, plus blackberries, a hint of something blue – like blueberry only not quite – licorice and some dark chocolate. There is also some spiciness I’m really digging. Gingery-nutmeg-ee. The finish isn’t long, but really pleasant. A little spicy, a little cherry action. I dig this wine. The best part is the price – 17 bones. Pick a bottle up at your local LCBO, it’s tasty, it’s well priced.

what the sfursat?

Chris Saunders — Fri, 13 Mar 2009 00:27:52 +0000

It’s not an evil word, although I hadn’t heard it until last week. Sforzato di Valtellina is a DOCG in a lush green valley northeast of Milan. They grow Nebbiolo grapes (my all time favourite varietal!!) to a higher level of ripeness, and let them wither before they enter the winemaking process. One of these wines made its way to the LCBO earlier this year, and at the recommendation of one of the Sommeliers at Jamie Kennedy’s Wine Bar, I picked one up.

NINO NEGRI SFURSAT VALTELLINA 2004
VINTAGES 84848 | 750 mL bottle

Price: $ 34.95

Crimson red with a cooked salmon looking kind of miniscus. I broke out the big ass glass for this one (a riedel sommelier grand cru burgundy glass I use for barolos), and the nose is a little closed. Tea-like herbal aromas, slightly sweet, leather, cedar, old pipe tobacco smoke. Just a hint of cherry, and some earthiness that some would likely call truffle. I’ve never smelled a truffle so I’m not sure. It’s enough to get me excited. The hint of great nebbiolo, plus some elements I wouldn’t normally smell like tobacco.

The first thing I notice is the silky texture – literally like crimson liquid silk sliding over my palate. I notice the expected elements of nebbiolo first – black tea, black cherry, blackberry, some anise and licorice. The transition to midpalate gives me a big blast of licorice and my tannic friends show up. Nebbiolo is always big in tannins. In this one, the tannins slowly sneak up on you in the midpalate and then they are there. The tannins have an elegant quality to them, refined and begging for a little pecorino. The finish is long and layered – cherry, blackberry, some of that sweet tobacco kind of flavours, with a lingering licorice flavour at the back of my palate. I am in love with this wine. It feels wrong to say that – this is definitely a masculine wine. He’s suave and refined, layered, complex and elegant, but he’s manly. Flavours are there firm, bold and unapologetic. It’s a good thing too, there is nothing to apologize for. For the price, this is an unbelievable value. I’ve had barolos for twice the price with half the interest. It’s a different experience to be sure, but it’s definitely nebbiolo. Now I know what a Sfursat is, and I am loving it. Get ‘em while you can!!

one of wine’s best kept secrets

Chris Saunders — Fri, 06 Mar 2009 19:04:08 +0000

Riesling. I’m not kidding. I think the 80s and 90s killed white wines with white zins and chardonnays. Rieslings, especially from Germany and Alsace, have been around all this time, and still represent KILLER value. No, there are no tannins in rieslings, but I am telling you – pick up a riesling from mosel or alsace, serve it room temperature and treat it with the reverence you would a bordeaux or a burgundy. The complexity is there. The aromatics are uplifting, flavour profiles exciting, the finishes are long, interesting and racing with acidity.

BERNHARD MEHRLEIN RIESLING KABINETT FEINHERB 2007

VINTAGES 89581 | 750 mL bottle

This wine is the colour of the first blonde you had a crush on. You’re at camp and the sunlight is streaming through her blonde hair. That shining, innocent blonde colour is this wine. The nose is equally flirtatious - green apple, honey, stone of a ripe summer peach and a hint of a sweet rose petal. You know some wines have personality; something just speaks to you from the glass. There is definitely some major personality here. Remarkable weight, apples, peaches and some almost graham cracker kind of spicy sweetness. The acidity is bang on here and balances the residual sugar that’s here wonderfully. The finish is an inspired dance on my palate of summer fruits and flowers, with a bit of minerality. The acidity ensures it’s a clean refreshing feeling left on my palate, and my mouth is watering for the next sip with a bit of peachiness still lingering.

I’m telling you, Riesling is complex and wonderful. The residual sugars and vibrant natural acidity from cool climates like Rheingau mean these puppies age too. The best part is that they are a steal. Check out your local vintages section next time you’re in the LCBO and peruse the German rieslings. 17 dollars for this great example, less than that is regularly available. If nothing else pick one up to start your dinner party with as an experiment.

Without fail, this is the varietal that gets the most knowing smiles when I talk to sommeliers, restauranteurs and other wine connoisseurs. The conversation usually ends with a wink and a smile, finger pressed to lips. They don’t want the secret to get out – aromatics, complex flavour profiles, lengthy beautiful finishes AND built to age, all for under 20 bucks? It’s one of wine’s best kept secrets.